Cloth Pad Cleaning And Care

{Buy My Cloth Pad Pattern HERE.}

Storage:

I just keep my cloth pads in the bottom drawer of my bathroom vanity.

You can store your cloth pads wherever you would normally store your disposable pads.

Soiled Pads:

When you remove a soiled pad fold it in half and use the snap to fasten so that it stays closed.

Do NOT put soiled Pads in a bucket of water. You will have mold and mildew problems.

You need to have a bin, or tub, or bucket, or some type of dry container to collect your soiled pads in until wash day. I use a mop bucket, because it is convenient for me.

A very cute and somewhat discreet option is to use a 'wet bag.'   You could stow it below your sink or hang it on a hook it the bathroom.

The term 'wet bag' comes from the cloth diapering community, I think. It was originally a waterproof cloth bag that you carried in your diaper bag and used to put soiled diapers into while you were away from home.

You can purchase wet bags from companies that market them for cloth pad users like Glad Rags or from companies that are marketing more for cloth diapers like Kelly's Closet. You can find them on Amazon too. Just do a Google search they're everywhere. There are many unique and homemade wet bags on Etsy, like the one below. Click here for link. (NOT an affiliate link)

The afore mentioned businesses also carry small travel size wet bags with two zippered compartments. These are great for carrying in your purse. You can use one zippered compartment for clean pads and one zippered compartment for dirty pads.

Please don't get the idea that when you take a soiled cloth pad off it must be put into some waterproof container because it is so messy and it might drip or something like that. That is just not true. The very center of the pad is usually the only dirty part, and it is not sloppy or oosing all-over the place. Once you fold the pad in half and button it the blood isn't going anywhere. I have been known to put folded and fastened soiled pads straight into my purse just like that to transport home without any trouble.

Cleaning:

I have enough pads that I can wait for my period to be over to wash all my pads at one time. If you don't have enough pads to last your entire period you will need to wash them and reuse them.

The washing method I am going to describe is the way that I wash my cloth pads. There are a lot of ways you could go about washing your pads. I have been pretty successful at keeping my pads relatively stain free with this method. After as many cycles as I have used my pads for there is bound to be at least some shadow stains.

Soak #1:

On wash day, I un-snap all my pads and lay them flat in a 2 1/2 gallon bucket. I run COLD water in the bucket until all the pads are submerged. It is important to use COLD water. Hot water will set protein stains, like blood.

I add 1/4 scoop of powdered hydrogen peroxide cleaner (I use Dollar General's generic brand of a product similar to Oxyclean). Mix pads and cleaner around a little bit to dissolve and distribute the powdered hydrogen peroxide.

Let pads soak for a few hours (3-4 hours usually). I am not going to lie, the water gets really dark. You want all of the blood to rinse out of the pads, and this first soak really reminds you that that is what's going on.

Drain the water. Squeeze the water out of the pads. When I squeeze the water out of my pads I never wring them or twist them. I feel like wringing them out will be to tough on the materials. Maybe I feel that way because I made them myself and I would hate to see them fall apart.  :)

If you have a waterproof PUL layer in your pads you definitely don't want to wring them or twist them. That could damage the PUL.

Rinse:

Put them back into the bucket and fill with COLD water. Swish around, drain, squeeze, and repeat until rinse water runs clear. I usually do this twice.

Soak #2:

Before I soak the pads the second time I rub Fels-Naptha soap onto any stubborn stains.

I don't spend much time stain treating. I just rub the soap on there and throw it back in the bucket.

I use a 1/4 scoop of powdered hydrogen peroxide cleaner, again, and fill the bucket with cold water, again.

This second soak only takes 1-2 hours.

Drain, and squeeze the water out of the pads.

Washing:

You can wash your pads in a regular load of laundry.

I just wash my mine in whatever load of laundry is ready to wash. I don't worry much about the water temperature at this point in the cleaning process.

Do NOT add softener or dryer sheets to loads of laundry containing your cloth pads. Softener can reduce the absorbability of your pads.

Drying:

You can tumble dry or hang dry your cloth pads.

If you have a waterproof PUL layer in your pads it is best not to dry them on high heat. The heat can damage the PUL.

When your pads are dry store them in their normal place. Don't forget to keep one (or two) in your hand bag: purse, baby bag, back pack, etc...

Miscellaneous:

How many cloth pads do you need? The answer depends on what your periods are like and your personal preference.

I have 22 pads in my stash: 2 very heavy/overnight pads, and 20 medium to heavy absorbency pads in various sizes.

I don't have very heavy periods and I rarely go through all my pads.

Some women find that they use more cloth pads than they would disposable pads because they change them more frequently. With cloth pads you don't have to worry about 'using them up,' 'running out,' or 'wasting' any. You can change them as often as you feel like it.

Some women use less cloth pads than they would disposable pads because their periods lighten up after they switch to cloth. This doesn't happen for everyone, but I have heard of it happening for more then one woman.

The chemicals in disposable pads could play a role in why some women have lighter, less painful, periods when they switch to cloth pads. You have to consider how sensitive the tissues exposed to the bleaching and sanitizing chemicals in disposable feminine products are. They are quite sensitive and may not tolerate all those chemicals very well.

That concludes my series on cloth pads! I hope that it has been informative and educational. If you have any questions please leave a comment and I will do my best to answer them. :)

A Word On Absorbency

{Buy My Cloth Pad Pattern HERE.}

I did an absorbency test with 2 samples of cotton flannel.

This test demonstrates the difference in absorbency between high quality flannel and low quality flannel.

I put 4 layers of flannel down on a piece of fleece and then I placed an average topper material over top.

Then I poured 2 tablespoons of water on the fabric. I let it set undisturbed for 1 minute to allow the water to soak in.

This is what I found on with the cheap cotton flannel:

The water soaked through all 4 layers.

This was cheap cotton flannel from a pair of Faded Glory brand (Walmart's generic) pajama pants.

This is how the high quality flannel preformed:

The water only soaked through 2 layers of the high quality flannel.

I used the same amount of water (it was the same temperature, too) and let it set for 1 minute, undisturbed.

The high quality flannel was from a JC Penney brand cotton flannel pillow case.

I could tell that the JC Penney flannel would be more absorbent just by feeling it. It was very thick and lush. The Faded Glory flannel was much thinner and lighter.

The cheap flannel can still be used to make good cloth pads. Knowing that it is less absorbent is very important, though, because you will have to use more layers to achieve the right absorbency. Or, you could do what I did, and combine some high quality flannel and low quality flannel and use them together in a pad.

Here is the general rule of thumb for how many layers to use:
(The smaller number would be for high quality flannel and the larger number would be for less absorbent flannel. )

1-2 layers of flannel = light absorbency
2-3 layers of flannel = medium absorbency
3-4 layers of flannel = heavy absorbency
4-5 layers of flannel = postpartum absorbency

These numbers are just a general rule of thumb. I recommend that you get to know the materials that you are working with and use your senses to determine how many layers of flannel you should use.

Another thing to keep in mind is that flannel's peak absorbency is reached after multiple washings and dryings. If you are using new flannel fabric it may not be as absorbent, yet, as flannel fabric that has been washed and dried countless times.

I want to also add, that you should not be using softener on your cloth pads or the material you will be making your cloth pads out of. Softener will make your fabrics less absorbent and possibly make them water repellent.

Installing Open Ring No-Sew Metal Snap Fasteners

There are 4 pieces to open ring metal snaps.

1 stud, 1 receiver,

And 2 toothed rings.

Place a toothed ring on the place where you want a snap, toothed side down.

Using a pencil eraser,

or, your fingers,...

poke all of the teeth through the fabric.

Place a receiver or a stud piece onto the teeth. Make sure the teeth are lined up with the corresponding groove in the stud piece or the receiver piece.

Place a spool over the receiver piece or the stud piece.

Give it 3-4 good whacks with a hammer. I recommend that you do this on your cutting board.

Double check, before installing the next snap, that the studs and receivers are pointing in a direction that will allow them to snap together correctly.

That is all there is to installing open ring metal snaps!

Up-cycled Cloth Pads {Part 3} Sewing Tutorial

{Buy My Cloth Pad Pattern HERE.}

To Cut Out The Pieces:

Take pattern piece B (the piece with the wings) and place it on the topper fabric you have chosen.

Place it so that it goes with the grain and covers a pretty section of fabric that will look good once it is cut out.

Pin it in place or use a pen, pencil, or marker to trace your pattern shape onto the fabric.

Cut piece B from your topper fabric.

Take pattern piece A (the piece without wings) and place it on your absorbent core material. Pin it in place or trace around the edges.

You will need to cut out several of these for each pad.
This is a rule of thumb for how many layers you need:
Terry Cloth-
1 layer = light absorbency
2 layers = medium absorbency
3 layers = heavy absorbency

Flannel-
2-3 layers = light absorbency
3-4 layers = medium absorbency
4-5 layers = heavy absorbency

To cut the back out, take piece B (the one with the wings), and position it on your backer material. Aligning it with the grain may be difficult when using up-cycled materials. Try to make it go with the grain as much as possible.

Pin or trace, and cut.

To Assemble:

Step 1.
Align the absorbent cores on the WRONG side of the topper.

Pin in place.

Mark quilting lines on the core fabric.

Using a sewing machine stitch through all layers along quilting lines.

Stitch both lines in the same direction.

Backstitch at the beginning and end of each line of stitching to make sure the stitching stays permanent.

The layers will tend to shift so sew at a slow pace.

Step 2.
Place the top and back together, RIGHT sides together, matching wings and curves. Pin in place.

Mark an area on one wing to be the designated turning hole (as shown). This is where you will be turning the pad right side out.

Stitch topper and backer together using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, backstitching at the beginning and ending. Leave the designated turning hole UNstitched.

Step 3.
Trim seams to about 3/16 inch from stitching. Leave the designated turning hole untrimmed (as shown).

Clip corners (as shown).

Clip inside corner at the designated turning hole (as shown).

Step 4.
Turn the pad right side out through the designated turning hole. Work all of the layers, edges, and corners until they lie flat.

Step 5.
Hand stitch the designated turning hole closed using a slip stitch or running ladder stitch.

Step 6.
Topstitch 1/4 inch from the edge along the entire perimeter of the pad, backstitching where topstitching meets.

Step 7. (Finishing)
Mark placement for snaps on wings. Install fasteners.

Finished pad:

Up-cycled Cloth Pads {Part 2}: Pattern Making

{Buy My Cloth Pad Pattern HERE.}

How to make a cloth pad pattern.

A note on pattern paper: 

You can use almost any kind of paper to make your pattern out of. I have used newspaper, regular printing paper, and brown paper (old Aldi bags). I am sure cardstock would work well.

Method #1 Using A Disposable Pad

• Trace the shape of your disposable pad onto pattern paper. 

• Use a ruler to add 1/2 an inch around the border of the shape you have traced. This is the seam allowance.

• Cut along the outside line of the pattern shape.

• Cut the wings off of your disposable pad that you are using as a template.

• Trace the wingless pad onto a new piece of pattern paper.

• Cut out the wingless pad shape that you have just traced.

• You can now label the wingless pattern piece 'A' and the winged pattern piece 'B'.

Method #2 Using A Quarter Folded Paper

• Fold a piece of paper in half and then into quarters.

• Decided how long you want your pad: divide that number in half. Take that number and mark where it lands on the long, folded, edge of the quarter folded paper.

• Decide how wide you want your pad in the center: divide that number in half. Take that number and mark where it lands on the short, folded, edge of the quarter folded paper.

• Draw a curved line connecting the two points. (As seen in the picture)

• Cut on the line, through all the layers. Leave the cut out piece folded.

• Fold a second piece of paper into quarters.

• Lay the already cut pattern piece onto the new quarter folded paper, carefully lining up the folded corners.

• Trace the shape onto the new paper.

• Add a tab to the traced shape. As shown. This will be the wing.

• Using a ruler draw a line 1/2 inch from the original shape, including the wing. This is the seam allowance.

• Cut out the winged drawing, through all layers.

• You can label the wingless piece 'A' and the winged piece 'B'.


I carry my pattern in several sizes on my Etsy store, if you are interested you can click HERE.

Up-cycled Cloth Pads {Part 1} : Materials

{Buy my Cloth Pad Pattern HERE.}

There are 3 layers to a cloth pad:
1. the "topper"
2. the "core" or "absorbent core"
And,
3. the "backer"

The Topper

The topper is the fabric that goes against your skin.
When I choose a topper fabric I like to stick with 100% cotton. Cotton is very absorbent and will soak up liquids right away. You don't have to use 100% cotton, though. You want to steer clear of material that is water repellent. I have heard of people using fabrics other than cotton including crushed velvet, which sounds very soft!

When choosing a topper fabric look for material that is comfortable. Cotton flannel is a good option because it is so soft. The only adverse thing about using flannel for a topper is that over time, and, after multiple washings, it tends to pill and look bedraggled.

When choosing a topper fabric look for something that is pretty, or speaks to you and your interests. :) If you like flowers, pick a print with flowers. If you like chickens, pick a print with chickens. If you are into music, find a print with treble clefs, notes, or even famous composers. You want to pick a fabric that is going to make you feel special. If you are the kind of woman who really dislikes having a period giving yourself something special to wear gives you something (albeit small) to look forward to.

Here is a picture of some topper materials I am going to up-cycle, just to give you some ideas. I found a pretty pillow sham and a flowery curtain (at the $5 Brown Bag sale I mentioned in Modifying A Silk Shirt) that are cotton. I also have some scraps of high end drapery material that I got at a Habitat For Humanity store, also, cotton.

The Core

The absorbent core is the material in the middle of the pad that does all the absorbing. It can be made of several layers of fabric for added absorption. 100% cotton is going to be the best up-cycling choice. Unless, you have some bamboo, hemp, or microfiber cloth diaper inserts laying around your house. Old towels are a great choice. They are super absorbent and hold a lot of liquid. Cotton flannel is another great choice.

In this picture are a few examples of flannel that I am going to be up-cycling into absorbent cores for cloth pads.

I found a pair of XL flannel pajama pants at a Goodwill Outlet store. Flannel sheets and pillow cases are usually a bargain at thrift stores. This pillow case cost 50¢, and will make about 6 or 7 cores. And, as I mentioned, Terry cloth towels are an excellent core material.

The Backer

The backer is a material that needs to be water resistant. It doesn't have to be waterproof. That being said, some women do like the peace of mind of having a waterproof fabric between the core and the backer, specifically, a material called polyurethane laminate, PUL, for short. I am not going to go into the details of having a waterproof layer in this post because I am writing about using up-cycled materials that you have around your house. PUL is not found in most households. Most fabric stores carry PUL, though, in case you want to check that out.

Not only should your backer be water resistant, but it should also not be slippery. The backer is the material that sets against your panties. If it is made out of a slippery material it will not stay were it is supposed to stay. You don't want your pads sliding around.

A good choice of material for the backer is polyester fleece. I have never heard of anyone using wool, but, it is water resistant and not slippery, so it may work well.

Here is a picture of some fleece jackets that I will be up-cycling. I found a couple at that $5 Brown Bag sale I mentioned earlier, and the one on the right is a fleece pullover that Mr. In The Mid-west has worn-out.

Preparing Upcycled Material

When preparing material for up-cycling there is no need to preshrink the fabric. Ideally, this fabric has been washed and dried countless times.

Although, you should wash items from the thrift store just to insure that they are clean.

To get the most out of your material, I suggest taking all the seams out with a stich ripper.

Now we are ready to draft a pattern! Look for Up-cycled Cloth Pads {Part 2} for instructions on making your pad pattern.

Schedule Of Upcoming Blog Series

I (finally!) have the series on making your own up-cycled cloth pads, (that I promised back in November when I shared my journey to cloth), ready to publish!

I have been working on this for a month and I am so happy to, finally, launch this series!

If you are less than excited about this series, I totally understand! You can tune out for the next 2 weeks. :) Please come back when it's over. :)

Here is the schedule for the series:

Monday, April 3rd • Making Up-cycled Cloth Pads Part 1 {Materials}

Wednesday, April 5th • Making Up-cycled Cloth Pads Part 2 {Pattern Making}

Friday, April 7th • Making Up-cycled Cloth Pads Part 3 {Sewing Tutorial}

Monday, April 10th • How To Install Open-Ring No-Sew Metal Snaps

Wednesday, April 12th • A Word On Absorbency

Friday, April 14th • Cloth Pad Cleaning And Care

So,
Mark your calendars and don't miss this series!

Or,
Mark your calendars and head for the hills! :) I won't be offended. :)